When I think of an inspirational design, my mind immediately goes to my favorite design, Margiela's Tabi boot. Introduced at Margiela's first show in 1988, the Tabi Boot was inspired by the traditional Japenese Tabi sock.
Margiela wanted to "create an ‘invisible’ shoe, the illusion of a barefoot walking on a high, chunky heel", which the design clearly reflects, featuring an asymmetrical split between the toes, with a large round heel. He intended to mix feminine and masculine fashion norms, saying they were "Very British, 1900s, masculine shoe styles on feminine lasts, with high heels that looked chunky seen from the side and quite narrow seen from the back. The chosen leather, assembly and finishing were as those used in traditional footwear for men." (1) Although the original Tabi's where crafted from canvas, not leather, due to budget constraints, the painted canvas and chunky side-profile combined with feminine high heels and slender view from behind created a sense of gender defiance.
"The Tabi boot is the most important footprint of my career: it’s recognizable, it still goes on after 25 years, and it has never been copied" – Martin Margiela Margiela was the split toe, which as simple as it is, invokes such strong reactions from the viewer. Tabi boots marked a shift in fashion, the beginnings of the "Anti-Fashion" movement, fashion which is intentionally contrary to the mainstream. The Tabi's had a large role in gently introducing these ideas into the hyper-sexualized society of the 80's. The split toe holds a true divisive value, creating a strong reaction of either love or hate from the viewer, both true in 1988 and now. Palais Galliera Curator Alexandre Samson said “The Tabi boots…were worn by very few daring people during the 1990s. In 2019, I’m not sure their aspects are yet accepted in the streets. Their provocative potential must not be underestimated."(3)
The Tabi boot has evolved and had many reiterations over its years, but has not aged or become any less modern in appearance, a true testament to its inspirational design.
"The Tabi boot is the most important footprint of my career: it’s recognisable, it still goes on after 25 years, and it has never been copied, it’s an incredible story." – Martin Margiela
(1) AnOther. (2015, September 1).The Tale of Margiela’s Tabi Boot. AnOther. https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7721/the-tale-of-margielas-tabi-boot
Richardson, M. (2018, August 30). A Split Toe Odyssey The History of the Tabi. Grailed. https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/tabi-history
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(3) CHITRAKORN, K. (2019, February 27). Why Margiela’s Tabi Boot Is Minting Money. The Business of Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/why-fashion-loves-the-margiela-tabi-boot
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British Vogue. (n.d.). Why Margiela’s Tabi Boots Are Still Dividing Opinion, 30 Years On. [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/what-to-know-about-margiela-tabi-boots [Accessed 4 Apr. 2020].
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Northman, T. (n.d.). The History of the Iconic Maison Margiela Tabi Boot. HYPEBAE. https://hypebae.com/2019/10/maison-margiela-tabi-boot-history-martin-margiela-japanese-footwear-inspiration
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